Underworld A/W 2019. Photo by Papik Cantrell.
Underworld is a clothing brand infusing practical workwear with a distinctly grunge skater style. Corey Wales, founder and sole designer, initially released pieces for his brand in early 2019, during his first year at a trade school for fashion and merchandising. Corey recalls, “When I started this I didn’t have super extensive fashion knowledge. I didn’t know how to sew, I just knew that I wanted to start a brand.” His initial Underworld releases were focused on graphic tees, and inspired by the likes of FTP and Superrradical. But as he progressed in schooling and developed some technical skills, Corey began experimenting with one of one, cut and sew pieces.
Mixed flannels were the first pieces of this type to receive significant attention, and have since remained one of his most popular styles. For Corey, the flannel making process begins at the Goodwill bins, where he can purchase second-hand clothing by the pound. He tends to gravitate towards earth tones, and prioritizes picking out flannel patterns that are different and contrasting. After gathering materials and honing in on a color palette, Corey asks himself “Alright, what do I want to do with this?” and usually starts by splitting the flannels down the middle. From there, he plays around with the patches, collar, and pockets until he’s found an arrangement that he’s happy with.
Some notable fans of these fused flannels are artists Lil Raven and Smrtdeath, both of whom Corey gifted Underworld clothes to. Corey specifically described the experience of giving Lil Raven a flannel before a show, and the unreal feeling that followed when Raven appeared on stage wearing it.
Beyond flannels, all of Underworld’s other one of one pieces are made from recycled clothing. Corey explained how as a teen working at a fast food restaurant, his budget is limited, so second-hand retail was the obvious choice. Although this sustainable option was endorsed out of necessity, both Corey and his customers appreciate the avoidance of fast fashion.
Photos by Papik Cantrell.
How would you describe the style of clothes that you make?
“I’m just trying to make stuff that looks cool, that looks different, and that is still wearable. I would say I’m a mix between grunge and skatewear, with a high fashion twinge at times. I would love to be making Fucking Awesome type clothes on a runway. I really want to merge skateboarding and fashion, and be one of the people to bridge that gap that’s actually involved in skate culture.”
What do you hope to accomplish with Underworld?
“The goal is to have it be my main source of income, that’s number one. Two, I would love to be at a point where I can employ my friends. I would love to have someone run my social media and someone pack my orders so that I can just create, create, create. That would be my ideal. I want to stay paid and stay improving. I’m far from the best at what I do but I want to continue getting better to the point where I’m proud of my skills, the way I’m proud of how far I’ve come now.”
Corey Wales in the Underworld Star Trucker Cap.
Like many others, Corey entered 2020 with high expectations and anticipated large collections for Underworld to debut in April and August. Unfortunately, coronavirus and quarantine disrupted these plans. Despite the current state of the real world, Corey is pleased with how far Underworld has come in such a short time. “It’s pretty weird that Underworld has expanded outside of my immediate friend group,” he remarked after noting the increasing amount of orders shipped to places beyond his home state of Washington.
Corey strives to continually expand Underworld’s fan base, and also wants to increase the range of products he sells. “I would love to be an alternative lifestyle brand, and just kinda have my hands in everything.” Jewelry, a classic VHS skate video, and Underworld skateboard decks, are a few of the aspirations he mentioned. In the more immediate future, Corey is looking forward to putting out a few 50-60 piece clothing collections and an Underworld collectable magazine.
Shop Underworld at underworldguesswho.com, and keep up with future releases on Instagram @underworld2002 and @underworldarchive.
Want to learn about another clothing brand? Read Djerf Avenue: Epitome of Ethical.
