High street stores such as Topshop and Urban Outfitters have contributed to the popularisation of Chinese cultural motifs and patterns in fashion. Like many others, they’ve churned out pants, skirts and mandarin collared tops in tacky faux-silk dragon embroidery. One notable high fashion designer that stands out from the chaos of mass-produced, cheapened East-inspired clothing is Kim Shui.
Kim Shui is no stranger to the fusion of cultures. She was born in the U.S., raised in Rome and is ethnically Chinese. Her aesthetic is thus credited to her myriad of experiences, which translates to traditional Chinese dresses and tops that embrace a sexy, provocative European twist. Her eye for design has granted her success from the creation of unique pieces such as barely-there backless qipaos and multi-tie mesh sets featuring modernized swirl floral prints.
Kim hadn’t set her sights on becoming a fashion designer right from the start. Originally an economics graduate working in merchandising, she changed things up when she decided to pursue a degree in fashion at Parsons in New York and Central Saint Martins in London. Soon after she won the 2016 VFiles Runway competition and the opportunity to debut her collection, thus establishing herself as a New York Fashion Week designer. Praised for its unconventionality and wearability, the label now boasts 125k followers on Instagram and carries the prestigious title of Forbes 30 Under 30 in 2019. Her latest Spring/Summer 2020 ready-to-wear collection is available for pre-order on her website.
One reason her clothing line has gained rapid momentum is its shock factor,
Not all her pieces herald praise however, as some Instagram posts are littered with comments offering conflicting opinions: “cultural appropriation of traditional wear” and “sexualising Chinese identity.” Kim Shui defends her belief that her garments serve to heighten appreciation for symbols of East Asia, rather than put down. However, not all criticism is unjustified – her more raunchy designs do beg the question if she is merely encouraging the further fetishization of Asian women. As a Chinese woman myself, I see that both sides of the argument are worth consideration. Either way, there is no denying the sheer talent of Kim Shui as a trendsetter and hybrid visionary, and her ability to stir important conversations about Chinese identity is deeply embedded in her designs.
Browse Kim Shui’s feisty Spring/Summer 2020 collection on her website and keep up with the brand on Instagram.
